I’m not a stoke killjoy, but it does get thrown around a lot. Moody locals say the word stoked, whilst grilling non-locals, grumpy old men say they are stoked even when all the groms are having a drop in fest and everyone who works in a surf shop in Newquay is permanently stoked. But you know what is real stoke? Getting pure joy out of surfing, whatever the waves are like and whatever board you’re on; shortboard, minimal, bodyboard, hand plane. Whatever Trevor.
Whilst in Sri Lanka I read The Power of Now; a book that encourages and advises readers to live in the moment and do what makes you feel good and as a result you will more alive than ever, more stoked. So if you like surfing, go surf and enjoy being out in the elements for the length of your surf. It’s amazing, you wouldn’t sit outside staring at the sky for an hour unless you were partaking in our beautiful sport, so take a look at the sky, properly stare at the clouds, look past the horizon, feel the waves bob underneath you and acknowledge how amazing it is to be floating in the ocean, riding massive lumps of moving water. It’s a beautiful thing and if you appreciate this every surf you’ll be genuinely stoked.
This is me having one surf on an average day of weak fat waves in Sri Lanka, a lot to moan about but also a lot to be stoked about. Stay stoked Amigos.