Surfing. Its simple. Just walk out into the surf, turn the board around, catch a wave and stand up.
Easy. If only.
The sport of kings takes a lifetime just to get “ok” at it. One thing you have to remember before learning to surf is the sad fact that you will never master surfing. It can be a slow painful process just to get to grips with the basics. However it’s not all doom and gloom. The whole journey is a fun one, that only gets better and better the more you do it.
The follow ten tips are to be used as a guide, they will kick start your surfing life. It is worth every penny to invest in some good coaching as years of practicing bad technique can he torturous.
Pick a beach that is well lifeguarded. Make sure the equipment you use is also safe, a soft board and a warm wetsuit will keep you out of trouble. Take advise from a past surf lesson or the lifeguards on the beach.
Hold back and take a look at what’s happening in the water. People that just rush in end up in trouble. Take note of what the tide is doing, where the rocks are, rips and where the best waves are for you.
Walk to the waters edge, slip your leash on around your back ankle. Make your way into the Ocean, keeping the surfboard by your side and pointing straight out to sea.
Once waist deep, turn the board around straight away, this time with the board straight back towards the beach. Keep an eye on the incoming waves at all times. If a wave comes you wish not to take lift the back of the board up and over.
As a new surfer you will want to catch a broken wave or white water. At waist deep this will normally be the only wave available. You want to pick your waves based on size, bigger the better and distance from you. The more distance you put between you and the wave the more time you will have for the next step, getting ready.
This is the most boring bit of surfing, but sadly if you don’t do it right you can forget the rest. You must pull yourself onto the board making sure the board is flat on the water. Too far forward will result in a nose dive and too far back will mean your be pushing water. Put your knees apart and keep your head up. Don’t wrestle the surfboard, lay into it.
You will need to get the board moving long before the wave meets you. The more paddles you put in the more chance of tapping into the wave. Don’t kick your feet and keep all your body still. Your paddle strokes should be long and affective.
After a while the wave will catch up with you. When this happens do two more paddles so you drop down the face of the wave. Use your head to help you catch waves, down for more speed and head up to stop a potential nosedive.
So by now you have caught the wave, you will be screaming towards the beach and now is about the right time to stand up. Pushing down as if you were doing a “half” push up bring your legs underneath yourself. This should be done at the same time as twisting your pelvis. This will help you slide your front foot forward, rather than trying to “step through”.
Once up keep a low centre of gravity, backhand in front, eyes fixed on where you want to be in two seconds time and knees bent. Relax and keep the board flat in the water. Once wave dies out, hop off and pat yourself on the back. Easy.